Newfoundland 2, Canada

Corner Brook – August 31 thru September 1, 2017

We left Margaree after we ate the breakfast our host had left out for us before she went to work in Port aux Basque.  We cleaned the kitchen up and headed down the road.  We were captivated by the landscape and the scenery.  Our first intended stop was the small town of Stephensville where we wanted to poke around and have some lunch.  On the way we came across a side road leading to a lighthouse and decided to check it out.  When we got there we were so close to the rugged shore line we spent more time looking at the crashing waves than thee lighthouse – as a matter of fact we almost forgot to take a picture of the lighthouse.

 

Stephensville was a little larger than we expected with an airport and some Canadian Military facilities.  We ate lunch at a small restaurant in the middle of town and took in some of the sites.  For the size of town and the population it was very busy and you could hardly cross the street.

On we drove to Corner Brook where we drove up the coast to Lark Harbor where we met 3 fisherman  jigging for mackerel.  They were doing very well with a 5 gallon bucket full of them.  They are full time fisherman with their own boats and they immediately opened up a conversation and offered beer.  I thank them and said I still had to drive and aside from not being safe I told them my wife would not like it if I was drinking and then driving.  Then they got excited and said, “That’s easy to fix – come on over have a beer and let your dern wife drive – that should be alright”.  We stayed and chatted for a while then headed into Corner Brook and found our Airbnb.  This was the nicest Airbnb we probably ever stayed in.  It was a full apartment with washer and dryer.  PR

Newfoundland’s nickname is the Rock.  Most people mispronounce Newfoundland. The key is to say it fast. A simple mnemonic device helps: “Understand Newfoundland.” The words rhyme and the cadence is similar.  Newfoundland has a rugged and wild beauty which is no surprise as it was formed from the merger of two continents and forged by glaciers and tectonic plate’s scraping against each other along with lots of wind, snow and rain.

We were told of the uncommon friendliness of the “Newfies.” They are a sturdy bunch – they work hard and party hard. They have a language all their own. Apparently it’s a combination of early the English, Irish, and French settlers , preserved by isolation. There were times we had a difficult time understanding these folks. A traveler in Newfoundland is known as a “come from away.”  There is even a Newfie dictionary.

Newfies are known for their extreme friendliness.  Their willingness to help others defines them as Newfoundlanders. Isolated on such a harsh island , they have learned to count on each other as a means of survival. They have their own traditions, food and music.

Mummering or mumming is commonly known in many communities. It’ also called jennying or jannying. It’s an old English Christmas tradition which involves a group of people disguised in ridiculous attire who call on local homes during the holiday season. We went to a dinner theatre in the small fishing village of Trinity where I was called to dance with one of the actors dressed like a mummer

 

We learned about several local delicacies including cod tongues and cod cheeks. Another very popular dish is a jigs dinner. This consists of salt beef and boiled vegetables. I might try this one but probably not the cod parts.  Desserts and jams made with different berries are also popular such as bakeapple (cloudberries).  I’ve tasted bakeapple jam and it is very good.

An interesting  Newfoundland tradition is to be “screeched in.” It’s a ceremony performed on non-Newfoundlanders (mainlanders) involving a shot of screech, a short recitation in Newfie and the kissing of a cod.

We stayed in a variety of lodgings through Airbnb throughout Newfoundland. The lodgings are always a part of the adventure. It was a relief to spend time away from the trailer not having to haul it throughout rugged Newfoundland with notoriously bumpy roads.   JY

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

We spent two nights in an AirBNB in Corner Brook, not far from beautiful Gros Moren National Park where we took a boat tour in Western Brook Pond. This is a Canadian fjord that has become a lake since it was cut off from the ocean and no longer contains salt water.

It is also part of the Long Range Mountains, the most northern section of the Appalachian Mountains. In order to arrive at the dock where the boat departs, it’s necessary to hike in about 2 miles (and back out again). This isn’t so bad except that it was raining the day of the boat tour. Despite the rain, fog and cold the scenery was spectacular.

 

While in Corner Brook, we also took a drive to Lark Harbor where Peter spoke with some fisherman. They generously offered Peter some beer which he graciously declined. Remember, these Newfies are super friendly and generous.

The Airbnb in Corner Brook was a real treat as it was basically a small self-contained apartment attached to a large house in an upscale neighborhood.

Wednesday, August 2, 2017

We spent  the night in another really nice Airbnb in Gander. I wanted to see the airport in this small town. . Have you heard the story of what occurred on 9/11 in Gander? As you know, the airspace over the US was shut down, and every plane in the sky was ordered to land immediately at the nearest available airport. More than 250 aircraft, carrying 43,895  passengers were diverted to fifteen Canadian airports. American-bound planes were forced to land in Halifax, Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal, Winnipeg and Calgary. In each of these cities volunteers and social service agencies came together to help stranded passengers in any way possible – from offering them a place to stay or a change of clothes to cooking them meals and taking them sightseeing.

The story of what happened in Gander is especially notable and demonstrates the kindness of Newfoundlander’s. At one time Gander was the largest airport in the world as trans-Atlantic flights needed to refuel when bound for North America from Europe. The aviation industry has improved considerably since then and planes now can carry the necessary fuel to cross the Atlantic. Gander is in the central highlands of Newfoundland . Thirty-nine planes landed there on September 11, depositing 6,595 passengers and crew members in a town whose population was barely 10,000.

Nearly every man, woman and child in Gander and the surrounding small communities stopped what they were doing so they could help. They placed their lives on hold for a group of strangers and asked for nothing in return.

We visited Gander Airport at night and most everything was shut down as it is no longer the hub it was at one time. We spoke to a  young woman who remembers very well 9/11 in Gander even though she was just 2 years old. She remembers there were lots of people staying at her house and her entire household was cooking for lots of  strangers.

New York City gave the airport a piece of metal from the ruins of the World Trade Center Towers. We were able to see and touch it at the airport.  The citizens of Gander have made it perfectly clear to town and provincial counsels that they will allow the terminal to be repaired but not modified in any way – it remains the same as it did on 9/11.  To this day the people of Gander and their children are intensely proud of what they did during the 9/11 crisis.  JY